20121209 VIC 19th Century Maldon

20121209 We were told about this town of Maldon that is notable for its 19th century appearance, ya we've heard it all before, "well" it was like taking a step back in time and my eyes lit up with excitement.  I did quite a bit of research which I found very interesting; it’s very rare you come across a town that’s so unique.

The History of Maldon

A settlement was established on the Loddon River in 1841 and a pastoral run licence was later issued for the 100.000 acres property in 1842, gold was found on the property at the end of 1853 in the region that was first called Tarrangower and eventually to be called Maldon.  A Polish captain Mechosk and a group of prospectors are credited with finding the first Gold at the base of Mt Tarrangower.  Initially the find of gold bearing quartz were ignored as the means of extracting the gold proven too difficult.  With the alluvial (fertile soil consisting of mud) rush over, miners now turned to investigating the reefs that had been discovered and looked for ways of crushing the quartz to extract the gold.  The tunnels became longer and shafts deeper, the cost of mining and processing the quartz became greater, this changed the appearance of the region from tent and shanty to tall chimneys, poppet heads, steam generators, batteries and large mullock heaps. 

The rush to the area increased the population to an estimated 20,000 then the lack of water made living difficult, gold petered out and two years after the initial find most miners had moved away.  The large mining town had approximately 40 mines in the region producing over 2 million ounces of gold which is over $600 million at today‘s prices. 

Maldon was declared a municipality (city or town with corporate status) in 1858 with the construction of two banks, a court house, a hospital and 10 churches and of cause the most important, 60 Hotels that operated at one time.  Maldon was ranked as the eighth largest town in the State.  By the end of the First World War the yield of gold started to peter out and mines started to close, the last one closed in 1926.  With the mines closing and the depression, people started to leave and half the houses were moved to other towns although some of the residents remained and the population dropped to nearly 1000.  In 1964, a study by the School of Architecture of the University of Melbourne led to the National Trust of Australia giving the first ever classification of “a notable town” to Maldon not because of the presence of any classical architecture but for its unspoilt historic character.  The town is now protected, with building and renovating in the historic precinct controlled by strict planning controls.

In search of a camp spot called Butts Reserve, we drove to the top of Maldon Lookout Tower were "I" climbed to the top while Des sat below.  Each year, during the Maldon Easter Fair, the tower is illuminated.  Prior to electricity being available it was lit up with 100 makeshift lanterns, using stone ginger beer bottles, hemp wicks & kerosene-attached by fence wire.  The number that remained alight depended on the prevailing winds.  The fire Brigade had to be called one year when one of the lanterns set the tower alight.  Now the strings of light globes can be seen from distance up to 50kms.  the tower 'alight' is still a delight to all at Easter.

The land around you is ancient, about 480 million years ago it was all under the sea.  Then a couple of tectonic plates collided deep underground, squeezing everything like a vice.  The sea bed was forced upwards and the sea drained away.  The great mass of the sea bed, layers of sand and mud, folder and welded together into stone that now forms the solid foundation of central Victoria.

It's really hot so we decided to stay in a caravan park closer to town and crank up the aircon.  Once we settled in I was itching to see the town so I suggested to Des we stroll into town for a couple of drink at the local watering holes.

Maldon Hotel

  The former Royal Hotel (1857) was originally a concert hall but became a hotel when extensions were added in 1862.
  The first Hotel we walked into and Des was greeted by a couple of young guys as pissed as farts "how ya going mate'.  We had one drink and left for the next Pub, not because of the guys but the fact it was spoiled by modernising the Decor, they should have kept the saloon style.

Kangaroo Hotel

The 1866 Kangaroo Hotel was a former Cobb & Co coach staging post.
On entering the hotel we were greeted by a friendly face, come in take a seat, where you from, and the conversation rolled on.  We stayed for a couple & the bar tended told us stories of landing in Maldon and how strict the building regulations are, he’s not allowed to change anything in his home. Decor was old tables and chairs and memorabilia.

  

I love fat chips, but I no of only one person that knows how to make the best fat chips and that would be Shirley, best chips ever.  Although we were given a menu we declined to eat there, not cheap plus the chef (Des) had prawns out for tea. 

Victoria Goldfields Railway

  Maldon branch line opened in June 1884 and included 13 timber bridges in its 16.4 km run to Castlemaine. Due to the decline of the town & the increased use of motor transport the railway ceased operation in 1976.  I was standing just off to the right of this photo as the train left the station and got splatted in water when the whistle blue.   Could you imagine getting away with standing on the railway at home.

Each carriage has its own special experience and you can even drink if you please.

• Footplate Ride with the crew.
• Driver Experience-You take control of the locomotive.
• Tambo Parlor Car-Treat yourself or a group to a touch of class on the premium carriage.
• Special Family Fun Event-A 1^st class experience for the young at heart.
• Gift Certificates-A surprise railway experience for a special occasion.

I snuck inside for a couple of pics and check out the interior.  Still the authentic wooden body carriages, with its leather seats which are all numbered and over head carry racks.

Ladies End Men are Requested Not to Remain Here, now piss off. 

I like that sign.

The hallway leading to your personal carriage, check out the design of the roof, pressed metal ceilings and polished interior woodwork.  They still have the genuine old style ticket that are clipped by the conductor.

Maldon State School- Opened in 1873, operating first at a previous church school.  A site was chosen by the Government, the current reserve was chosen after local agitation for a more prominent location.  The HR Bastow design in Free Gothic style was derived from the symmetrical plan of the Buninyong completion school design.  A similar approach was taken at Creswick and Castlemaine, Maldon remains a more intact example.

The blue building is significant because it features a large advertisement for Bushells Tea, the old fashioned advertisement that existed on buildings often in history, like 100 years ago.

Maldon’s main street is lined with 19^th century buildings.  When mining stopped in the area so did development, leaving the buildings of the gold mining era intact. 

Phoenix Building 1906

  The land was purchased by H Knight in 1857 and the building appears to have been constructed and occupied by Knight’s Butchers until 1882 when it was sold to Rowe’s Butchers.  The building was operated as a butcher’s until the present building was constructed in 1906 and occupied by Trengrove’s Drapery.

Shakespeares Hotel

The land was purchased in 1857 but experienced flooding until 1860 when the watercourse was filled,  In 1860 Dean occupied the premises with a General Store and in 1864 applied for a license and named the building as Shakespear Hotel.  It now operates as a haberdashery.

The Gothic Revival-style Holy Trinity Anglican Church was constructed between 1862 & 1869.  The church features outstanding stained glass windows, much prettier windows than in the Gothic church in Bendigo by far.

This is a proud place, preserved by not having become a part of the ‘progress’ which has overtaken most other old Australian towns.  The pace if that is what it should be called, is easy.  The rush is over but the secret stays.  By: John Larkin

This would be a town I could settle in, only Des recons I'm speaking shit as I would never live that far away from my family and friends, he could be right.